![]() ![]() Nothing really worked to entirely stop the boil over. I doubled up on catch tanks - KDX and WR ones at the rear, then a Gas Gas one that went around the steering head. Modified the impeller to have longer vanes, with a water pump spacer. Ported the various inlets and outlets of the coolant system, and the water pump. I made various inline aluminium coolers, through to (near) entire finned aluminium lines, that looped back, down then back up to the radiators, which added about 300ml to the coolant capacity, plus the extra 'radiant' capability. Various coolants ( including Engine Ice), other than Evans - as, I did Not want to 'hide' the problem, and have the engine 'cook in it's own juices' - and none, cured the 'kettling'. It's used as a single tracker, extreme terrain torque monster, so it doesn't get much airflow through the radiators. My 500 2T has been a 'kettle' since I've had it. So, in that state, it probably is a far lesser coolant than Engine Ice, and other high performance coolants. Or is it more like, the thermostat is designed to operate from 95-100 degrees, and water will hover around 95 and evans will hover around 98? something like that? Then this is true for any fluid right? Let's say water is around 95, and evans is around 98.But, it no longer has the same properties. when it's above 100 degrees, it'll pump coolant through the system until it gets back to 100, and when its below, it'll keep the coolant in the block until it reaches 100 - correct? Sorry - so yes it will self regulate, but around a higher temperature? Can you explain what the process is? ie for whatever fluid, let's say very simplistically that the thermostat is designed to operate to maintain the temperature at 100 degrees(whatever). The better temperature control reduces stress and allows for higher power output. If you could monitor 100 points around the engine you should find a more even temperature distribution. The result is not an overheating situation, the bulk coolant temperature will be higher and your temperature gauge will read higher. Right, but even if less heat is carried away, the thermostat will force it to constantly flow through/carry heat away if it is running hotter - and unless it's a terrible cooling system, won't it run in the designed range?Ĭorrect, the thermostatically controlled cooling system will self-regulate to stabilize the temperature. Race tracks prohibit Evans products because they are flammable and slippery when spilled. Viscosity is 3-4 times higher than what OEM water pumps are rated to accommodate.Ĭoolant flow rate through radiator tubes is reduced by 20-25% due to the higher viscosity. Specific heat capacity of Evans waterless products ranges from 0.64 to 0.68, or about half that of water.Įngine octane requirement is increased by 5-7 numbers.Ĭomputerized ignition must retard engine timing by 8-10o to prevent trace knock.Īccelerated recession of non-hardened valve seats in older engines is possible, due to brinelling. Reprogramming ECU fan temp settings is mandatory to prevent the fan from running continuously. Stabilized coolant temps are increased by 31-48oF, versus straight water with No-Rosion. Inhibitor deposition occurs on aluminum surfaces, which could cause issues in some radiators.Įngines run 115-140oF hotter (at the cylinder heads) with Evans products. Thoughts?Ĭonversion costs of $259 if you do it yourself, or over $400 if you pay a shop to do it.ĩ7%+ removal of all previous coolant is mandatory in order to prevent corrosion. When I spoke to an Evans rep they said if the car's not already overheating, there's no reason for this fluid to overheat in the car.įYI, this fluid requires a full flush, dry block, then they fill it up with this stuff. Is this more or less correct? I know there's variance in the temperature of course, but I've heard of a *few* accounts of people saying it ran hotter in their cars. ![]() ![]() I don't understand how a coolant would run hotter unless its heat dispersion was bad enough to overwhelm the system. Can anyone explain to me why, within a normally operating system, any fluid, whatever fluid that is in there would run hot?Īs far as I can understand, in general, the thermostat monitors temperature, opens up when it reaches the operating temperature and lets coolant run through the system, if under operating temperature it will keep it in the block. I have heard, however, that this coolant runs hotter than a "typical" coolant (evos use the green one). Supposedly the main benefits are that it doesn't run water, which prevents any sort of issues with corrosion, and that it is non-toxic. Did a quick scan of this but did not come across any posts - sorry if missed.
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